the debate about whether deck boards should be placed 'bark side up' growth rings curving down or 'bark side down' growth rings curving up has raged for years. many people feel that bark side up is always the answer, but this is not accurate. in reality, you can decide which way is best for orienting the boards, whether you're installing a new deck surface or replacing a damaged wood deck
how to install wood deck boards. as the wood dries, it will shrink, leaving a small gap between each board. orient the deck boards so the growth rings in the end grain have the arc facing up. when nailing into the end of deck boards, turn the nail over and tap the point with a hammer to blunt the nail and prevent splitting.
composite decking can be fastened to treated wood joists with screws or with hidden fasteners. using composite deck screws is critical because they are specially designed to help hold the material in place.
line up the seams over double joists. to install composite decking with a hidden fastening system start at the house by face screwing the first board. next screw a hidden fastener clip into the groove on top of each joist. then slide the groove of the next board into the clips and tighten with a rubber mallet.
place the blades between the bottom of the decking and the supporting framing and cut just the screw. the small amount of wood taken out will not matter, but lean the blade toward the wood being discarded.
messages: 71. likes received: 0. trophy points: 33. can you get to the joists underneath. if so can you get a sawsall blade in or a metal cutting blade of an ossolating tool between the deck board and the joists and cut the screws. this will not necessarily help remove the screws but will get the boards off.
these are the features to look for in the screws you use to secure your composite, capped composite and pvc deck boards: an auger tip bores out the material as the screw drives through the material. reverse threads help secure the deck board to the framing and pull down the shavings so they dont get trapped under the head and cause mushrooming.
these screws are a lot cheaper per pound when purchased by the 25 pound box, but not many people need that many. pre-drilling holes: the main benefit of pre-drilling holes for deck screws, or any screws, is simply preventing the wood from splitting. often this is the only way to prevent splitting when driving screws or nails close to the end of a board.
for composite decking, place the first deck board against the building and screw it down to the deck floor joists along the building edge of the board. subsequent boards are placed against the starter board and clip on a modest angle to make setting the next board in place into the clip.
the two most effective methods of installing decking screws are: the traditional pre-drilling, countersinking and deck screwing method which can be completed in two steps. the ejector screw deck screw method where the drilling, countersinking and screwing of deck screws are performed in one quick step.
on another section of deck, the framing is different, and these auxiliary legs from the side are screwed into the front to butt the side of floor joists. establish a pattern. the outermost deck board sets the pattern and layout for this three-sided deck, so ben establishes screw placement every 16 inches on center over the sleepers.
deck foundation and framing. the actual spacing depends on the manufacturer's recommendations, but it's usually 16 inches, as measured from the centers of the lateral joists. the lateral joists, in turn, need to be properly supported from the rim joists by joist hangers secured with 1-inch nails or screws.
steps: 1. measure the deck for the first decking plank. 2. cut the plank to length with a circular saw or power miter saw. 3. if necessary, use a jigsaw to cut a hole in the plank for the downspout. 4. set the plank onto the deck, and use a putty knife to slip it under any existing metal
make sure it goes all the way in and hits the sheathing. secure the deck boards with 2 nails or screws where each board crosses a joist. 3 nails or screws may be necessary over the rim joists. whether you choose to use nails or screws, be sure to choose galvanized fasteners to keep them from rusting out.
how to lay decking. then using the camo fastener as a spacer, get your decking in position and mark where the end of the first piece meets your timber edge. hammer in a nail at this point and do the same on the other end of the decking. then tie off the string line to the nails. using the camo fastener and drill,
how to fasten pressure-treated decking. the screw length is very important; these screws need to penetrate in the joist by 1-1/2 inches. when it comes to the board ends, predrill to prevent splitting. the screws should be countersunk, but only enough to dimple the surface. once all of the decking is in place, snap a chalk line
you want to have your weight behind the drill and drive the deck screw strht down into the board, making sure the deck screw is not going in at an angle. drive the deck screws into the board so that they are flush with the top of the board itself; slightly deeper than flush is alright, too.
buy a set of countersink bits. also, you can hide the screw by drilling a deep countersink, called a counterbore, and gluing a plug into the hole. countersink drill bits are available in sizes to match screw sizes. if you're an avid woodworker, it's worth buying a full set. otherwise, a no. 7 or no. 8 will cover the most common screw size.
tip 1 - fastening deck boards flipping and filling in the hole with wood filler, and sanding it down but it would leave a tiny mark , or. you could reuse that center hole and use three screws to fasten the boards to the joists.
screw down both ends of your strhtedge after marking the decking. then measure the distance from the line to the strhtedge in the center to make sure its the same as the end measurements. if necessary, bend the guide board until the measurement is the same and screw down the center. run your saw along the strhtedge to cut off the boards.
i always screw down my decking with no gap when using pressure treated lumber. the reason i'm asking is a customer wanted us to 'match' an existing part which was nailed down. the spacing question was something my partner had questioned me on and i just wanted to get other opinions on it.
deck framing. these screws should be at least 1/2 inch in diameter if they will support the weight of the deck, and the point should sink at least 1 1/2 inches into the stationary member. thus, 4 inches would be the minimum length of a lag bolt used to attach a 2-inch board.
when i take up a deck floor, i often have to pry up each board and pull the scews out or through. no point in even trying to get old rusty phillips screws out. then the new ones go back down with the above-mentioned star drives 9 x 2 1/2' when i'm putting down 5/4 radius edge deck boards, and 9 or 10 3' when i'm putting down 2x lumber.
how to remove and replace wood decking. align the first deck board perpendicular to the floor joists and overhanging the outside edge of the deck. screw the board in place using 3 long, rust resistant deck screws. pressure treated deck boards which have been kiln dried after treatment kdat will expand slightly in width after installation,
sounds like you are using typical decking screws. if so, you need to check out the screws made specifically for composite decking. i can't think of what they are called right now that add thing again , but they are the cat's meow for composite decking. they are quite expensive, but save in the addl labor countersinking and banging down mushrooms.